TOHOKU

Japan at a slower pace

Tohoku occupies the northern part of Honshu, between Tokyo and Hokkaido. Despite being relatively easy to reach by Shinkansen, it receives far fewer international visitors than the better-known destinations further south.

That is part of its appeal.

This is a region of mountains, forests, hot springs, historic towns and agricultural landscapes, with strong local traditions and marked seasonal changes. For travellers wanting to see a less familiar side of Japan without necessarily travelling somewhere extremely remote, Tohoku can be particularly rewarding.

It is also a large region. The key is not trying to cover all six prefectures, but choosing the parts that genuinely add something to your journey.

Mountains, temples and historic towns

One of Tohoku's best-known sights is Yamadera, a temple complex built into a mountainside in Yamagata Prefecture. Reaching the upper temple involves climbing more than 1,000 stone steps through cedar forest, with views across the surrounding valley from near the top.

Further north, Hiraizumi was once a major political and cultural centre. Its temples and gardens, including Chuson-ji and the famous Konjikido, reflect an attempt by the powerful Fujiwara clan to create an earthly representation of the Buddhist Pure Land.

For something very different, Kakunodate in Akita retains a well-preserved samurai district. Several former samurai houses can be visited, while the town is particularly attractive during the cherry blossom season.

These aren't simply alternatives to Kyoto. They tell different parts of Japan's story and work best when they are allowed to do so.

Onsen and rural Japan

Tohoku is particularly strong for travellers interested in traditional onsen towns and stays in the countryside.

Ginzan Onsen, with its wooden ryokan lining a narrow river, has become increasingly well known and can be extremely busy at popular times. It is beautiful, particularly under snow, but it isn't the only reason to consider an onsen stay in the region.

Across Tohoku there are hot-spring communities ranging from substantial resorts to much smaller mountain settlements. Choosing the right one depends on the route, season and kind of experience you want rather than simply selecting the most photographed.

A good ryokan stay here can also provide a natural pause in a longer journey: somewhere to slow down, enjoy the baths and have dinner rather than adding another day of sightseeing.

A region defined by its seasons

The seasons are particularly pronounced in Tohoku.

Spring arrives later than in Tokyo and Kyoto, which can make northern Honshu interesting for travellers hoping to see cherry blossom after the main season further south has finished. Hirosaki in Aomori is especially famous for blossom around its castle and park.

Summer brings some of Japan's most energetic festivals, including the huge illuminated floats of Aomori Nebuta Matsuri and the Sendai Tanabata Festival.

Autumn colour spreads through the mountains before reaching much of central Japan, while winter brings deep snow to large parts of the region, transforming its landscapes and onsen towns.

The season can therefore have a significant influence on which part of Tohoku makes most sense to visit.

Food and sake

Tohoku is one of Japan's major agricultural regions, and food is an important part of travelling here.

Aomori is particularly associated with apples, Yamagata with cherries and other fruit, while excellent rice is grown across the region. Coastal areas have very good seafood, and Sendai is famous for gyutan, grilled beef tongue.

Tohoku is also one of Japan's important sake-producing areas. Good rice, cold winters and clean water provide excellent conditions for brewing, with breweries ranging from well-known producers to small local operations.

For travellers interested in food, including Tohoku can provide a very different perspective from dining in Tokyo or Kyoto.

How Tohoku fits into a journey

One of Tohoku's advantages is that it doesn't necessarily require the logistical commitment people imagine.

The Tohoku Shinkansen runs north from Tokyo through places including Sendai, Morioka and Aomori, making parts of the region surprisingly accessible. From there, local trains, buses or private transport can take you further into the countryside.

It can work particularly well as part of a northbound journey from Tokyo towards Hokkaido, but it doesn't have to be treated merely as somewhere to pass through on the way north.

With enough time, combinations of cities, rural areas, onsen and historic places can make Tohoku a substantial part of a holiday in its own right.

Should Tohoku be part of your journey?

Tohoku is particularly worth considering if you have visited Japan before, want to spend more time outside the busiest international tourism centres, or are interested in landscapes, onsen, food and regional culture.

It can also work very well for a first visit when those interests are more important to you than following the conventional Tokyo–Kyoto route.

What we wouldn't suggest is adding Tohoku simply for the sake of going somewhere less visited. A destination isn't automatically better because fewer tourists go there.

The reason to travel north is that something there suits you.

For the right traveller, Tohoku can provide some of the most memorable days of a journey through Japan.

Explore Tohoku for ideas. We'll help you decide whether it belongs in your journey and how best to experience it.

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